Basalt Tile Installation

WALLS

Standard framing is fine to support a tiled wall. The wall must be strong enough to hold up with the additional weight of tile, adhesive and grout. Use plaster, gypsum board or moisture resistant portland cement backer boards for most tiling jobs. Plywood and Gypsum based products are not recommended for wet areas.

Wall Tile, depending on the nature of the installation, usually takes only 1 day to complete. Counter tops, backsplashes, shower-stalls, tub surrounds and other basic applications can be installed and grouted in 1 day. If the installer feels it necessary to grout the following day, the grouting takes very little time (1 or 2 hours). Any additional preparation such as sheeting and/or mudding the walls can tack on an extra day. Considerations to take are related tasks such as; electrical fixtures, plumbing fixtures, shower enclosure door sizes, or anything that sets upon or within the structure being covered with tile. It is not always the responsibility of the installer to implement alterations to accommodate for such things and should always be discussed in depth before the undertaking. The original salesperson is the first person to assume responsibility and all details should be covered at that time. Most tile setters are professionals and never leave a job incomplete, but at the same time .... they provide a service that covers many areas of expertise which is their livelihood and cannot always be expected to perform extra tasks at their own expense. Floor Tile is usually a 3 phased installation. Installation of Substrate Plywood Ditra Cementboard Mud Setting of Tiles Grouting Installation of the Substrate is very important as is the understanding of each method's characteristics regarding the application and longevity. The thing to remember is that the tiles need a solid foundation on which to bond to for the next 100 years (or more) and which system does what the best.   Setting of tiles is the most time consuming part of the task and can take a full day to complete (for larger jobs you'll need to coordinate with the installer). The installer will need a work station outside your home for the water-saw and grinders, a water source and clear path from the entrance to the work area. When the tiles are laid, it is very important to stay off them until they set up (at least over night)at all costs! Any movement of the tiles will affect the plastic bond between tile and mortar and cause you to have loose tiles and ultimately ... cracked grout. Grouting is the last phase of the installation. The application of the grout is the process which brings it all together by blending the lines of the tiles, edges of the room and fixtures into what you've waited so long for. So what that you've eaten pizza for 3 days .... the heartburn was worth it! After the sponge cleanup by the installer, there will be a fine dust residue left on your tiles. After the grout is dry (6 to 8 hours), you may wipe this dust off in a polishing motion with a thick cotton cloth (an old white towel is perfect)and then vacuum the loose dust. After the dust is gone you may then quickly wipe the tiles with warm water and sponge or cloth for a final cleanup. It is not necessary to seal your grout, but if you decide to take the extra precaution ... PLEASE check with the installer to find out the manufacturer of the grout and their recommendations. Finally ... do not replace your appliances upon the tile floor until the next 24 hours or recommended time from your installer. Also, ask your installer the best way to move them across your new floor.     Although there are 3 phases to the installation, there is also the preparation by the homeowner. Disconnecting and moving appliances is important and if it can be done by the buyer, it cuts down the cost of the installation as well as save on time. If there is existing flooring to be removed, make sure that it has been discussed upon purchase and again .... never assume it is the installer's responsibility.

 

Definitions of Substrate: The following methods for securing floor areas in preparation for tile installation are the approved methods used in the US today. Some procedures take preference over others based on physical examinations of each individual job but the purpose here is to explain each method without bias. Plywood Douglas Fir exterior-grade plywood Select Tight-faced, meeting CSA-0121 minimum thickness of 5/8" should be used to strengthen the existing surface in preparation for a ceramic tile installation. The procedure can involve removing the existing floor (ie:1/4 inch underlayment and cushion vinyl or VCT), exposing the original 5/8" exterior grade plywood or 3/4" Oriented Strand Board (OSB) and starting fresh. Each installer has his own opinions of what should be done for a guaranteed installation as well as considerations regarding height differences in the floor surfaces. The sheets of plywood are secured with screws and/or staples. Adhesives may or may not be used between the plywood and existing surface .... this again depends on the installer and circumstances. Remember ... although the wood adds structural strength to your floor, it isn't the best surface to bond ceramic tile to. Using a uncoupled membrane gives you a rated floor ready for ceramic tile or stone. Cementboard (CBU) Sheets of aggregated Portland cement boards with glass-fibre mesh embedded into their construction. This may change in various degrees depending upon the manufacturer. The sheets should be set into the proper mortar and then nailed or screwed into the existing floor. The seams should then be taped and filled with thinset mortar as well. Always refer to manufacturer's recommendations for installation procedures. Mud (Mortar Bed) The mortar is prepared from a mixture of portland cement and sand, generally in proportions by volume of one part cement, and 5 parts sand. This in turn is poured over a "cleavage" or separation membrane of asphalt sheathing paper, felt, or polyethylene film separating the mortar bed from the existing floor. Metal lath is used to enforce the mortar bed. A mortar bed when finished gives a seamless and very strong foundation for your tiles. Unfortunately ..... the 1 inch or more thickness of your mortar bed combined with the 1/4 inch bond coat and 3/8 inch of ceramic tile gives you quite a raise in your completed floor surface, so again .... examine all your options in depth. Ditra Ditra is a product which compensates for the expansion and contraction of subfloors by allowing independent movement of the tiles uncoupled from the subfloor. Ditra can be used over any surface. I personally see many advantages to this product where various restrictions limit your options.   Scratchcoat & Wire Mesh This stuff is a joke to anyone who takes their trade seriously and if someone has told you this method is preferred or recommended .... I advise you to question them as to what authority or recognized agency has offered this false information. Wire mesh is stapled to your existing subfloor and a non-modified mortar is then spread into the mesh creating a very thin layer for your tile. It is always uneven and does nothing to benefit your tile installation. The ONLY advantage is to the builder or tile company because it's CHEAP.